Once upon a time, I was taking a writing class, and the assignment prompt was to write a short story including a bar and a railroad. Of course, I had to add a dragon to the mix, and the result was The Turnspit Dragon. The story featured two research rabbit holes I’d fallen into: the early railroad and the turnspit dog. (I know. I’m a cat lady, but I have a dog, too…) So today, I want to talk about the turnspit dog.

What Was a Turnspit Dog?

The turnspit dog, also known by its Latin nickname Vernepator Cur (meaning “the dog that turns the wheel”), was a breed developed specifically for the kitchen. Their job was simple but exhausting: run inside a wooden wheel, like a hamster wheel, which was connected to a spit over an open fire. As the dog ran, it turned the spit, keeping the meat cooking evenly over the flames.

Human servants had done this job, often young boys, but the invention of the turnspit machine led to dogs taking on the task. These dogs were prized not for their looks or companionship, but for their ability to trot at a steady pace for hours.

What Did They Look Like?

Turnspit dogs weren’t especially attractive. They were bred to work. They were short-legged, long-bodied, and low to the ground. Their backs were often slightly arched, and their legs crooked, giving them a lopsided look. Most were grey or brown with shaggy or wiry fur.

Some accounts describe them as resembling a small basset hound or corgi. Their short legs helped keep them low and stable in the wheel, while their long bodies and sturdy build allowed them to keep running for long periods.

A Hard Life in the Kitchen

These dogs were working animals, not pets. Most worked long hours, often in hot, smoky kitchens filled with the smell of roasting meat and ash. They ran for hours with little rest. The wheel and spit system they ran in was mounted high on the kitchen wall. If the dog slowed down, the cook might yell or throw something to keep it moving.

Turnspit dogs often had a partner to trade shifts with. One dog would run while the other rested. Though their job was rough, some families grew fond of their turnspit dogs. A few were even allowed to sleep by the hearth or eat scraps from the table. But overall, they were valued for their labor, not their companionship.

Turnspit dogs were mostly found in Britain, especially in Wales and England, during the 16th to 19th centuries. They were common in wealthier homes with large kitchens that cooked big roasts. Some inns and taverns also had turnspit dogs to help cook for travelers. This, by the way, is how the Turnspit Dragon, mistaken for a scrappy little dog, meets his Friend.

Why Did Turnspit Dogs Disappear?

By the mid-1800s, the turnspit dog’s job became unnecessary. New inventions made the dogs’ hard work obsolete. Mechanical spit-turners powered by weights, steam, or even clockwork took over in kitchens. Later, gas and electric ovens made roasting meat even easier.

As their job vanished, so did the dogs. Since they weren’t bred for looks or companionship, there was little interest in keeping them as pets. Turnspit dogs were never officially recognized by dog clubs or breeders, so when they fell out of use, the breed wasn’t preserved. Some people believe turnspit dogs may have contributed to modern breeds like the Glen of Imaal Terrier or certain dachshund varieties, but the original turnspit is now extinct.

Today, using a dog being used like a kitchen appliance is a pretty uncomfortable thought. But it does make for a fascinating research rabbit hole.

References

Atlas Obscura. “The Best Kitchen Gadget of the 1600s Was a Small, Short-Legged Dog.” https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/the-best-kitchen-gadget-of-the-1600s-was-a-small-shortlegged-dog

Dog Breed Info Center. “Turnspit Dog.” https://www.dogbreedinfo.com/t/turnspitdog.htm

Doucleff, Michaeleen. “Turnspit Dogs: The Rise And Fall Of The Vernepator Cur.” NPR, May 13, 2014. https://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2014/05/13/311127237/turnspit-dogs-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-vernepator-cur

Saveur Editors. “The Turnspit Dog: A Kitchen Appliance on Four Legs.” Saveur, April 12, 2016. https://www.saveur.com/turnspit-dog-kitchen-appliance/

The Kitchen Sisters. “Turnspit Dogs.” Hidden Kitchens, NPR. http://www.kitchensisters.org/hidden-kitchens/turnspit-dogs/